Classes and Tutorials Create Gender Inclusive Spaces in Makeup

As the beauty industry is booming, critics and consumers alike are working to hold it accountable for inclusion.

Cisgendered women, usually white, have been the target audience of the industry as we know it today -- which often leaves out the rest of the gender spectrum, including transgender and non-binary folks.

But some recent changes signal a step towards greater inclusivity. This summer, Sephora launched a series of makeup classes inviting the transgender and nonbinary community to learn makeup techniques in a safe space. They've already rolled out in major U.S. cities, including New York, and are being introduced around the country.

"We had kind of community interest and internal interest that showed us there was a chance to use Sephora for the greater good and make a class for this client," says Corrie Conrad, the director of social impact and sustainability at Sephora.

The classes were created in response to the fact that there are so few resources for trans and nonbinary people interested in makeup. Conrad says that based on the feedback they’ve gotten, many haven’t had makeup introduced to them in a way that specifically addresses their needs before. 

Chris Steele, a makeup artist who helped create the classes, says classes like this are a big step forward towards addressing the needs of transgender customers. When it comes to practicing makeup, they say routine is important -- it's practical, and helps people learn their faces and figure out what they like.

"A lot of us in the trans community are feeling uncertain, and I think there's a lot of uncertainty in the air," Steele says. "So creating a structure for yourself that you know you are living in, that makes you feel empowered and makes you feel like you can go out into the world with your warpaint on -- that's priceless, really."

Steele, who identifies as transgender and drew from their own experiences in the process, says routine also facilitates self-exploration.

"Being trans is such an evolving process," they say. "You are constantly discovering things about yourself and how you want to present yourself. It's such a different journey for everybody that is on it."

Steele says listening to people across the community, from older transgender people to young nonbinary teens, is key. Right now, for example, classes they lead have a strong focus on color matching and color correction technique, developing a good skincare routine, and creating a clear, solid base for looks.

Advocates say they want to continue see folks across the spectrum addressed and acknowledged within the industry. Clara Mae, a makeup artist who works closely with the queer community and with trans people in particular, says diversity can't just be treated like a trend.

"To really show inclusivity, it comes down to -- in all the advertising and imagery we see -- show everyone," she says. "And don't make a big deal out of it, you know what I mean?"