No "Goddesses of Food"? Female Chefs Beg to Differ
A Rejoinder to a Lack of Women in TIME's "Gods of Food"
Friday, March 28, 2014
Why aren't women seen as being as important as men in the world of food?
TIME's controversial "Gods of Food" issue last November got tongues wagging in the restaurant world, because it did not list one single female chef.
Editor Howard Chua-Eoan made things worse by explaining in an interview with Eater that the chef's world remains a boy's club, in part because men in the industry "take care of each other" more than women do.
That so challenged and insulted restaurateur and magazine editor Kerry Diamond that her biannual food magazine, Cherry Bomb, swiftly arranged its first-ever conference celebrating women and food. The Jubilee takes place this Sunday, March 30, at the High Line Hotel.
"Like it or not, there are things very particular to being a woman in the food world," Diamond told WNYC's "All Things Considered" host Amy Eddings. She caught up with Diamond at Prune, the acclaimed East Village restaurant of author and chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who's also taking part in the conference. "It's motherhood, it's the hours, it's figuring out your way through what has been a male-dominated world."
Diamond added she thinks an "out-sized" amount of attention has been paid to male chefs by the media. The conference, she said, is an attempt to correct that imbalance.
Hamilton, who's written articles for The New York Times, The New Yorker, Bon Appetit, and Food & Wine, said she's thought a lot about why women chefs are not attracting more coverage. "I don't know if we're doing newspaper-worthy food. I don't know what gets column inches anymore. Do we need to be Cryovacking [food] and sous-viding it and setting it on fire?"
"Something is not interesting about us," she said.