Streams

Last Chance Foods: Forget Ramps, Try Cardoons Instead

Friday, March 08, 2013

Chef John Fraser admits that cardoons look like “celery with armor.” Beneath that bristly exterior, though, there hides a delicious spring vegetable. Just be sure to snap on a pair of gloves before you start preparing them.

“You have to be careful of the thorns because they are pretty... sticky,” says Fraser, who heads the award-winning restaurant Dovetail on West 77th Street. “The only way to cook cardoons without peeling them first is to make soup out of them. They must be washed first. But otherwise you need to get those thorns off.”

Cardoons also need to be introduced to an acid soon after being prepared or, like artichokes or other basic vegetables, they will turn brown when exposed to air. “It doesn’t necessarily change the flavor, but it’s not as pretty,” Fraser said. When shopping for them at the farmers market, go with stalks that are still firm and seem crunchy, he added. 

Cardoons, which are invasive in some parts of California, are now in season there, and Fraser receives regular supplies from the Santa Monica farmers market. “I would put them somewhere between celery and artichoke,” he says of their flavor.

Fraser previously trained with Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in California, and started working with cardoons while living on the West Coast. He realized that many people might not be familiar with the thistle-like plant so his first step was to create an informal marketing strategy for explaining its appeal. “You know, a lot of people believe that sort of ramps are the first sign of spring,” Fraser said. “I actually would make the argument that cardoons are.”

(Photo: John Fraser/Nathan Rawlinson)

Currently, he serves poached cardoons with lamb in a homage to the coming season. “They are the sort of ‘here comes spring’ ingredient,” he says. “If you’ve ever seen a plant, I mean, they look like weeds. They have this... overgrown celery look. If you didn’t know any better, you’d say someone should have cut that, you know, last year.”

Because of that relatively toughness, Fraser recommends long and slow cooking methods like braising. At Dovetail, he uses vegetable stock with salt, lemon juice, white wine, thyme, garlic and bay leaf as a poaching liquid.

“They really have this sort of Mediterranean feel,” Fraser said. “Anything that goes with an artichoke goes with a cardoon.”

Below, try Fraser’s recipe for cardoon gratin, which is a classic Mediterranean method of preparing the vegetable.

Cardoon Gratin with Pine Nuts, Parmesan, Winter Truffle
by John Fraser, Dovetail
(Photo: Cardoons at the Union Square Farmers Market/Howard Walfish)

  • For cardoons: roughly 2 bunches
  • Acidulated water to prevent oxidization
  • 1 lemon per quart of cold water (about 3 qts total)

Peeling the cardoons:
Peel the cardoons and place immediately into acidulated bath. After peeling, cut the cardoons into 2 inch lengths.

Parmesan Mornay

  • 1 qt  milk
  • 2 oz butter
  • 2 oz flour
  • 4 oz  grated Parmesan
  • 1 tbs winter truffle oil
  • salt, pepper, nutmeg, cayenne to taste

Prepare a roux by melting the butter on the stovetop and mixing in the flour. Cook on medium heat stirring constantly with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes total. Cool. Bring the milk to a simmer. Whisk in roux and cook at a light simmer for 15 minutes. Whisk in seasoning, cheese, and truffle oil.

Pine Nut Breadcrumb

  • 2 cups stale, day old breadcrumbs
  • 1 cup pine nuts
  • 1 cup grated parmesan
  • 1 tbs fresh thyme leaves
  • Toss ingredients together.

To prepare gratin:

Mix cardoons with the mornay and pour into a large buttered casserole dish. Top with Pine Nut Breadcrumb, cover with foil, and bake for 40 minutes at 350 degrees. Remove foil and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until top is evenly browned.

Finish with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Shaved Winter Truffle

Optional additions: caramelized onion, raisins, sage, etc.

Guests:

John Fraser

Hosted by:

Amy Eddings

Tags:

More in:

News, weather, Radiolab, Brian Lehrer and more.
Get the best of WNYC in your inbox, every morning.

Comments [2]

"Wildman" Steve Brill from Mamaroneck

Cardunes sound great. I've never seen them in the health food stores where I shop, but there's a close relative that's very common in the wild, burdock. It's not the taproot of the first-year version of this biennial (which is also delicious), but the peeled, parboiled immature stem of the second-year plant. It comes up as a "weed" in parks, disturbed areas, and edge habitats throughout the northern half of North America, in May in the NY-Metro Area.

Its flavor is very similar to artichoke, and apparently to cardunes too, as traditional Italian foragers I sometimes run into in the woods mistakenly call burdock stalks "cardunes." I add them to a wide variety of vegetable dishes, and they're great tasting.

To learn more about foraging, check out my site, wildmanstevebrill.com, or my app series, Wild Edibles.

Mar. 09 2013 07:24 AM
b from BK

By in season you mean in season somewhere. Clearly they are not in season in the North East.

Mar. 08 2013 07:46 PM

Leave a Comment

Register for your own account so you can vote on comments, save your favorites, and more. Learn more.
Please stay on topic, be civil, and be brief.
Email addresses are never displayed, but they are required to confirm your comments. Names are displayed with all comments. We reserve the right to edit any comments posted on this site. Please read the Comment Guidelines before posting. By leaving a comment, you agree to New York Public Radio's Privacy Policy and Terms Of Use.

Sponsored

About Last Chance Foods

Last Chance Foods covers produce that’s about to go out of season, gives you a heads up on what’s still available at the farmers market and tells you how to keep it fresh through the winter.

Feeds

Supported by