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CNN correspondent Walter Rodgers has worked in Sarajevo, Afghanistan, and the West Bank. Most recently he was embedded for three weeks in March 2003 with the Seventh Calvary, who advanced from the Kuwaiti border to Baghdad. He's recently written an account of the experience called Sleeping with Custer.

Music: soundtrack from "Black Hawk Down" by Hans Zimmer (Decca) tracks 2, 8, and 10