William Grimes, former restaurant critic for the New York Times, discusses the history of New York’s dining culture. His book Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York, takes us from the days of simple chophouses to the Automat to the city’s huge array of multicultural offerings of today.

Comments [15]
My grandfather opened the first Dinner Brothel at 6485 Broadway. I wish you would right a book about that. I loved seving th edrumsticks
Thanks to Rachelle & judy! I'm glad I checked the page again. I didn't realize there was a distinction in the names as well as the food itself. I wonder what the origin of the usage is--why "appetizing" for dairy & "delicatessen" for meat.
Was cafeteria foods more nutritious then today's fast food.
Is it more ecologically friendly to serve fast food with all-disposable serving plastic and paper then to have washed utensils in cafeterias?
Do health regulations require washing of trays between uses? The cafeterias washed them!
just listening to your show and someone DID write a book on Jewish delis! Save the Deli author David Sax was on NPR earlier this week.
http://www.wnyc.org/shows/bl/episodes/2009/10/14/segments/142602
www.savethedeli.com
Appetizing did,and still does, refer to the dairy foods like smoked fish, herring, cream cheese, and such.
Appetizing refers to a fish and dairy store that would sell lox, herring in cream sauce, cheese and so on. Delicatession served meat. These were kosher establishment so that is the reason for the separation.
Do you remember the very inexpensive Czech and Hungarian restaurants that used to serve roast duck with red cabbage and chicken paprikash. They were on upper east side. In the 60's and 70's, you could have a full meal for a few bucks. They were delicious.
Cross-cultural fandom:
Whenever I see "the Godfather", I notice in one scene (they're waiting for word about the meet with Salazzo, I think) the table is _piled_ with Chinese takeout containers; my guess is that this is an accurate bit of attention to detail.
Also see:
http://dragon.soc.qc.cuny.edu/Staff/levine/NYJews%20and%20Chinese.html
Glad you mentioned Luchow's. It was a real old world throwback. i took a date there way back in the 1970's and she and I) thought it was really elegant. I recall being told that they had liquor licence number 1.
My great-grandfather operated 2 steak & chop houses in Manhattan in the 1870's - 90's, Purcell's Steak and Chop Houses. One was on 9th Ave at 59th St. Has Mr. Grimes included the names of such restaurants in his book?
Bill Grimes's mentioning how all the NY restaurants were using French reminds me of Ogden Nash's poem about the cabbie who strove to give his passengers a classier ride. It ends:
"In all this great city it is the only hack
In which the passengers are addressed as Mam'selle Sister and M'sieu Mac."
How much of the restaurant dining experience in New York in the 19th century was in private clubs?
What percent of a price of a meal goes to rent?
Has it increased or decreased?
The cafeteria business may have died due to changing tastes and competition from fast food franchises. The automats, for example, were replaced with Burger Kings.
How has chain restaurants influenced local and regional cuisine?
What is the role of New York restaurants like Delmonicos on the American culinary scene? How has the development of a la carte restaurants in the city influence world cuisine?
My family owned a cafeteria in Union Square where the Heartland Brewery is today. It served a largely blue-collar clientele, back when the neighborhood had mostly industrial and discount retail businesses. That cafeteria closed many years ago for unique reasons, but I have a question: What killed the cafeteria business?
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