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Diversità
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
The July issue of Italian Vogue will solely feature black models, including older models, and plus size models. Impetus for this issue came in part because of the influence of U.S. Politics, and from talks at the New York Public Library. Fashion activist Bethann Hardison and Elite model agent Calvin Wilson talk about the impact of the upcoming issue.
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When i wtached the 2006 Mundial contra France and Itali, I saw blacks on France and a lily white Itali team. Ergo, vivre la France.
France is a USA with a different language 80% of whose words are the same as English. If it is spelled the same, it's pronounced differently. If it sounds the same, it's spelt differently.
Geez- How about in August- only Chinese models-
and then in September- only Hispanic models- and then the month after that- only Asian models- and then... well, you get the idea!
The fashion industry is not that deep. It markets solely to create revenue. There is a large ‘black fashion’ industry that only features black models already. And I’m sure when average people think of models, Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks would be in the top 5 most recognizable. Something news worthy would be all models that are Arab or Indian or Indigenous or overweight or disabled…etc…This is a case of an issue being made out of an non-issue.
I'd like to see an issue features only minority plus size models. Now that'd be something.
Feh!
Perhaps 'IMUS' would accede to become a consultant to VOGUE to help in their quest for thier new: Diversity-of-Model' fashion campaign...
As for myself- I know it's the very first thing I look for in my quest for fashionable clothing...
IMAN was on Tyra Banks promoting a new makeup line and book she wrote for black, asian and spanish women geared to their skin tones and her book has specific beauty tips for hair and makeup.
Feh!
I'm certainly gratified to know that Brian Lehrer, NPR and WNYC are able to focus, and bring light to bear on the often overlooked topic of Model-Diversity in the fashion publication world.
I'm hoping that people will now become more aware of this delicate issue and organize demonstrations in front of VOGUE's headquarters for more 'Model Diversity'!
Yes- we certaily do need MORE 'Fashion Model Diversity' in the pages of VOGUE!!
I'm shocked by the hostile commentary posted on the comment board. I think it confirms the negative attitudes held towards black women. Doesn't our beauty deserve to be highlighted?
Jesse
ok but, isn't not fair if you let the chinese models in the asian issue. maybe in 2009 they could have a different european country featured.
I'd also like to suggest that VOGUE have some 'Model Diversity' of say, Serbia and Bosnia... in the very SAME issue! (OK- so maybe to keep peace with the pages of VOGUE- the could print half of the issue showing Serbian Models; and then- printing the other half of the issue upside-down depicting the Bosnian Models!
And then- how about those beautiful Islamic women decked out in their beautiful Burkas'-
Geez- you wouldn't want to leave THEM out of VOGUE just because they're (somewhat?!) modest!! Hey- and the color 'black' is always a 'High-Fashion' statement when it comes to the Islamic mode of female dress! <-(Oh Yeah!)
"Is Fashion Racist?"
Of course Fashion is Racist!
where do you think the got the term:
'Fascist' from?!
Is fashion racist? You have to ask?
Is fashion obsessed with appearance, status, mere looks, and (of course) money?
What percentage of American millionaires and billionaires are white? Go into one of the snobby swank stores on Fifth Ave and check what percentage of customers are white.
Kudos to Italian Vogue and to WNYC for covering this issue.
It's all too easy for those who see the world through white tinted-lenses to convince themselves that media images are representative when only white people are depicted.
Isn't that being racist itself by just featuring black models? Why can't Vogue just have an edition where they have diverse models?
please ask about blacks behind the camera.
are there blacks working at vogue?
Ideally, there'd be no need for an all-black issue. Why can't the panoply of humanity appear in every issue?
EXCELLENT point, hjs.
What possible reason do we have to believe that two flunkies from modeling agencies are going to offer anything like honest insight into racism in the fashion world?
More than a little amusing to hear Bethann Hardison talk about how things "used to be". Is she seriously trying to suggest that this nation was _less racist_ in the past?
Why are people surprised that fashion is a racist industry, they reflect the general culture in the west.
I hope no one serving in Iraq or Afghanistan is listening to this right now.
All power to them! The less black girls that get trapped into the fashion business the better. How many healthy models are there that don't smoke, "self-medicate" or end up traumatized by their experience?
Isn't the fashion industry classist? Doesn't this issue stem from that?
I believe the models reflect the buyers or the demographic purchaser. Also, the color palette of the clothing are limitedly made for specific skin tones. I believe models enhance or 3-Dimensionalize the lifestyle the clothing would project.
There is a sense that the slim, curve-less build, often white build is somehow more artistic, rather than sexy. This is racist and does not reflect what we of any color in this country find beautiful.
Unfortunately this is extremely relevant. In the 21st century black children are still internalizing inferiority. See the doll test done. http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6181729
The West created the concept of racism, it is as much part of the western culture as reason is!
What about the whitewashing I of black models on the covers of almost all the fashion magazines? They always look painted white to me and I've always found it apalling.
Fashion seems more fickle than racist. There was a time back in the 90's when we saw a lot of black women from all over the world: Alex Wek, Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks.
I am a 4' 11" woman and have no role models. Where's my representation? Fashion is most definitely heightist.
Is an industry that is obsessed with such shallow values such appearance, status, looks and money even RELEVANT? Furthermore, SHOULD it be relevant?
Wilson's contention that the fashion world needs to "celebrate the beauty of our people" is absurd. Let the fashion world stay pointless and shallow and let it sink into obscurity where it belongs.
To Stephanie post 23. Do you have any idea what you're talking about? This is quite an astonishing statement coming from a woman. Do you really feel that models are any less female than you? Do they have less self esteem than any other women? What a ridiculous statement. Jealous much?
Listening to your panelists talk about the "girls" and the "kids" makes me wonder if we need a feminist issue of Vogue or Elle. Aren't these adult WOMEN we're talking about?
What about black male models? or minority men in general. Not many of them
Is an industry that is obsessed with such shallow values such appearance, status, looks and money even RELEVANT? Furthermore, SHOULD the fashion industry be relevant?
Wilson's contention that the fashion world needs to "celebrate the beauty of our people" is absurd. Let the fashion world stay pointless and shallow and let it sink into obscurity where it belongs.
This segment is pathetic. WHO CARES??? Could you discuss something more important than this Narcissistic Self Absorbed Superficial Irrelevant Topic?
I wonder whether American Vogue would ever do an issue on race in fashion.
How can I get in contact with Bethann Hardison ?
It seems there is a correlation between all celebrity covers and issues and the minimization of ethnic models and super-models in general. I have noticed in the last 10 years there are only tiny little super stars on the covers of the major fashion magazines.
Boring!
I apologize, but I cannot stomach the arugment that lobbying for plus-sized models is not understanding fashion. To make that argument, implicit is the statement that "large is not beautiful," and that carries no more water than "black is not beautiful." The truth is couture fashion tends to reinforce the ugliest manifestations of body-image problems in women, and it only reinforces them. Also, I'm pretty damn tired of your correspondent using the term "girls." There's something chattel-ish about that terminology? Are we talking fashion or harem?
It is telling that both guests refer to people primarily and mindless consumer tools as if that were our most important role in society.
Let us all bow down to the gods of fashion!
Your guests are being disingenious. The clients ie; the designers, are the ones that dictate who their models are based on what they percieve to be their target demographic. Mostly they don't want to be associated with black culture. This goes back to when Tommy Hilfiger didn't want his clothing worn by urban black youth.
In Asia, local fashion industry commonly use Western looking local models. For example, chimes bra companies use white models or western-looking Chinese models in printer ads.
I love clothes... hate fashion.
From pregnant teenagers to fashion models.
Worst. Broadcast. Ever.
As for the 'Race In Fashion' issue of VOGUE-
I would recommend the 100-Yard Dash!
@36
"Narcissistic Self Absorbed Superficial Irrelevant Topic" completely wraps it up. This segment is pointless and fashion is pointless, frivolous and self indulgent. If the subject is going to be something as shallow as fashion, I would expect more critical angle from WNYC.
is Calvin Wilson the real vogue target audience?
What about America's Next Top Model? Out of ten winners, only three are caucasian.
The real problem is not lack of diversity within the fashion industry. The problem is the existence of the fashion industry in the first place.
You're right, Brian. The last comment seemed to say "Stay in your place" and don't try to be in the mainstream. I'm every woman, gosh darnit!
Bill - good observation. They wouldn't do it in the U.S. because of the thinking of that last radio comment-maker. They do not consider us mainstream or beautiful. Europeans are more open and have more vision.
To hear these speakers posture like they are interested in diversity and respect for black women while referring them to "girls" and "Hangers" ?! Give me a break. Models are the most offensive symbol of patriarchy, oppression, capitalism, exploitation...ugh! to seek out some idea of racial justice through elite-couture-fashion spread representation BS is an infuriating thought.
@40
I agree completely agree. The fashion industry is oppressive by it's very nature. It would be better for everyone if everyone rejected it's standards and it's marketing.
Here, here, David
At least Brian was reasonably thoughtful in the pregnant teenagers segment. He let these two fashion industry flaks go completely unchallenged.
If WYNC keeps up this quality of programming, I'm sure it will be reflected in the next pledge drive. Completely outrageous.
Well I have to say something about Black America not being mainstream: I think some of this, maybe most, comes from the Black American community itself. I teach kids acting and have been told by perfectly well spoken, young black and Latino kids when I handed them monologues that the language was "Such a White girl way of talking!" When I asked if they meant me, the chorus of response I got from my kids was "Oh no not YOU, but white girls are soooooo [insert overgeneralization followed by impression of a 'white girl'(not me, of course)]." I wonder if what the caller was getting at when he made the comment about Vogue not being popular or read predominantly in the Black community is that women in that community have a strong sense of themselves and wouldn't regularly read Vogue even if more woman of Afro-ethnicity graced the covers, because let's face it, those women would have to have proportions of 6 foot bean poles in order to be in the fashion world, and curves are far more admired in the Black and Latino communities. I personally don't read Vogue because I feel it's a publication for people with very glamorous, jet-setting lives and I am too poor to identify with it. and to those who think fashion is irrelevant, it most definitely not.
@56
Have you consider that comments like ""Such a White girl way of talking!" are as much about class as they are about race?
I never said that the fashion industry isn't relevant. But I do suggest that the fashion industry should not be relevant because it has little to no socially redeeming qualities and primarily reproduces values which are oppressive, snobbish, pretentious, frivolous and self-indulgent. Forget that noise.
Also, you say "I personally don't read Vogue because I feel it's a publication for people with very glamorous, jet-setting lives and I am too poor to identify with it." If that is the case, why do you assert the fashion industry's relevance?
Feh!
I applaud Italian Vogue's "Black Issue" on making a point while celebrating fashion and beauty. I'm a White woman who believes that our strength lies in our diversity. Certainly, the models walking the runways during NYC fashion week are not reflective of the beautiful faces and figures I see on the streets just outside the tents. Brava!
@57
Just because I don't identify with something doesn't make it irrelevant.
and the kids I teach are from the same income level, black, white, Polish, Russian, Indian. They are all suburban and not poor nor rich.
You interviewed (6-24-08 about 11-12 AM)someone whose company converts
"grass" to oil via bacterial treatment .
Can I get the name of this company?
Thank you
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