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OKRA GUMBO WITH SPICY SAUSAGE

Serves 4
TIME: About an hour, largely unattended

I love slow-cooked okra, especially with sausage and tomatoes. For the best texture, you've got to sear the okra first. But after that, there's little to do but let the pot bubble away. To serve this New Orleans style, pour a ladleful into a shallow soup bowl and nestle a scoop of plain white rice into the center. And if you're looking for that traditional rich flavor and texture, try the variation with roux. Other vegetables you can use: any green (string) beans.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound spicy smoked sausage or kielbasa
1 large onion, halved and cut into thick slices
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound okra, trimmed
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
4 cups chopped tomato (canned is fine; no need to drain)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves (optional)
Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a deep skillet or large pot over medium-high heat. When hot, add the sausage, prick it with a fork a couple times, and cook until it's golden brown on all or most sides. Transfer the sausage to a cutting board.

Add the onion to the hot pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and turning golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Meanwhile, slice the sausage crosswise into rounds. Remove the cooked onions with a slotted spoon.

Add the remaining oil to the pot and stir in the okra. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown a little, then add the garlic and cook for another minute or so, stirring once or twice. Return the sausage and onion to the skillet and add the tomato, along with a cup of water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat so it bubbles gently. Cook, uncovered, stirring every once in a while, until the okra are very tender and the sauce has thickened, about 45 minutes. Stir in the oregano if you like, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve, garnished with parsley.

Vegetarian Okra Gumbo. Simply omit the sausage. Heat the oil in the pan, then skip directly to Step 2.

Okra Gumbo with Roux. Use butter instead of oil if you like and increase the quantity to 5 tablespoons. Have 1/4 cup of flour ready. Follow the recipe through Step 2. In Step 3 add all of the remaining oil or butter (1/4 cup) and turn the heat down to medium-low. Add the flour and cook, stirring almost constantly, until the mixture (called the roux) darkens to the color of iced tea and becomes quite fragrant. This can take up to 15 minutes; lower the heat if it's sticking or cooking too fast. Add the okra and continue cooking and stirring until the okra starts to soften, another 3 to 5 minutes. Proceed with the recipe.

Okra Gumbo with Seafood. Use the main recipe or the preceding roux variation: Use peeled shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams, or squid (alone or in combination) instead of the sausage. Skip Step 1 and don't add until the okra is just about done in Step 4. Then add the seafood to the pot, cover, raise the heat to keep it bubbling, and cook for another 5 minutes or so, until the seafood is opaque but not overcooked.

Okra Stew with Curry. Omit the sausage or substitute 2 boneless chicken breasts if you like and sear and slice them as directed in Steps 1 and 2. Substitute curry powder for the oregano and cilantro for the parsley.

BACON-NUT STUFFING

Serves 6
TIME: About 2 hours

A nice stuffing for chicken or turkey.

8 ounces slab or sliced bacon
2 cups roughly chopped onion
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
2 cups bread crumbs, preferably fresh
1/2 cup pine nuts or chopped walnuts
1/2 cup dry white wine, chicken or vegetable stock, or water
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

If you're using slab bacon, cut it into 1/2-inch cubes; if you're using sliced bacon, coarsely chop it. Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring or turning until crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain, dry, and crumble.

Remove all but 3 tablespoons of the fat from the pan and, still over medium heat, cook the chopped onion, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, bread crumbs, nuts, wine, thyme, bay leaf, and bacon and remove from the heat. Season to taste with salt (you may not need any) and pepper.

Pack into a chicken or turkey if you like before roasting or just bake in an ovenproof glass or enameled baking dish for about 45 minutes at 350-400F. (Or you can cook it up to 3 days in advance and just warm it up right before dinner.)

LAMB COUSCOUS

Serves 4-6
TIME: About 1 hour

The couscous stretches this dish out quite a bit and absorbs all the lovely flavors of the braising liquid.
Other cuts and meats you can use: cubes of beef chuck, round, or brisket.
Other grains you can use: bulgur, precooked cracked wheat.

2 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, or extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 to 2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1- to 2-inch chunks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large onion, chopped
3 tablespoons chopped garlic
Two 3-inch cinnamon sticks or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cups lamb, beef, or chicken stock or water
1/2 cup raisins
Large pinch saffron threads (optional)
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves or 1 tablespoon dried mint
1 cup couscous

Put the oil in a saucepan with a lid over medium-high heat. When hot, add the lamb, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes. Drain off the excess fat, add the onion, and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, cinnamon, coriander, and cumin and cook for another minute.

Pour in the stock, add the raisins and the saffron if you're using it, add another sprinkle of salt, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low so it bubbles steadily but not violently; cook, stirring once or twice, until the meat is tender, about 40 minutes. (At this point, you may refrigerate the lamb for a day or two; reheat gently before proceeding.)

Stir in the mint and couscous, cover, and turn off the heat; let sit for 5 to 7 minutes without disturbing. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve.

Chicken Couscous. Substitute chicken thighs or legs for the lamb. Reduce the cooking time in Step 2 to 25 to 30 minutes.

Vegetable Couscous. Substitute peeled and cubed butternut squash, sweet or white potatoes, cauliflower, zucchini or summer squash, eggplant, cabbage, or a mixture of any of these for the lamb. Add 1 cup cooked and drained chickpeas too if you like. Add the vegetables and chickpeas along with the stock (use chicken or vegetable stock) and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes.