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CLAMS IN CARTOCCIO

Serves 6

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces pancetta, cut into -inch dice (ask the butcher to slice the pancetta inch thick when you buy it)
2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 to 3 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
3 pounds New Zealand cockles or small clams, such as Manilas, scrubbed
12 ripe Sungold or cherry tomatoes, halved

Preheat a gas gril or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill. In a 10- to 12-inch sauté pan, combine the oil and pancetta and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is starting to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers, garlic, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, just until the peppers are beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Stir in the parsley, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool completely. Cut six 12-inch squares of heavy-duty foil.

Lay out the squares on a large work surface and fold up the edges of each one to form a shallow bowl. Divide the clams among them, then divide the pancetta mixture, with its liquid, among them. Scatter 4 tomato halves over each pile. Bring the four corners of each foil packet up over the clams like a hobo sack and twist the top together securely, crimping the edges to create a tight seal.

Place the packs on the hottest part of the grill and wait until you can hear the juices bubbling, about 2 to 3 minutes, then let cook for 4 minutes longer. Transfer the packets to a large platter and serve, warning your guests of the piscatorial facial that awaits them.

THICK-SLICED ONIONS WITH LEMON THYME

Serves 6

These are so good—grilling onions caramelizes the natural sugars and brings out all their inherent sweetness, which is emphasized in this dish by the balsamic in the vinaigrette. If you can only find regular thyme, whisk in some grated lemon zest along with the olive oil before drizzling the mixture over the onions.

¼ cup balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons chopped fresh lemon thyme
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
2 pounds medium to large red onions
About ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

Combine the vinegar, garlic, and thyme in a small saucepan and heat until fragrant and just beginning to steam (the mixture will register about 150°F on an instant-read thermometer); don't let boil. Remove from the heat and let stand for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, slice the onions into ½-inch-thick slices and lay out on a baking sheet. (To make it easier to turn the onions on the grill, and to avoid losing any onion rings in the fire, insert a toothpick into the side of each slice, pushing it halfway through; or put a wire cooling rack on the grill so the onions won’t slip through.) Brush on both sides with 3 to 4 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper.

Place the onions on the hottest part of the grill and grill, unmoved, for 4 to 5 minutes, until just charred on the first side. Turn and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more, or until softened and lightly charred on the second side. Transfer to a baking sheet or platter and remove the toothpicks if you used them, then carefully stack the onion slices—like pancakes—on a serving platter.

Whisk the remaining ¼ cup olive oil into the vinegar mixture and drizzle it over the onions. Serve warm or at room temperature.