Saturday morning 5.30 a.m., up An-Sam mountain (well,
more of a hill) to an area of temples, or maybe it’s all one temple. This
isn’t anywhere in the tourist guide, it’s just one of the many temples
in the city, and at this time on a Saturday morning, the hills are alive with
the sound of …hikers, calling to each other. The hikers, mainly seniors,
walk in single sex pairs for the most part, and donning nylon jackets, visors,
and canvas backpacks. I am with
Richard
Nunns, a New Zealander who is devoting his life to saving old Maori instruments.
He has chosen to play a pipe that is symbolic, both for the Maori people, and
also for this sacred Buddhist place, he says.
We
are nervous about entering one of the beautifully decorated houses but we slip
out of our shoes, and do. Silk cushions cover the floor, and the room is adorned
with many statues, candles, plastic flowers. On the roof is a sign that looks
like a reversed swastika – an ancient Buddhist symbol. We enter another
house and take jujube
tea in the kitchen. Slices of ginger float on the top, it’s thick and
sweet. The little houses are on different levels up the hill and all around
the site. There's lots to explore, including a carp pool, statues of giant tortoises
and a stack of roof tiles which can be painted with slogans. Down the hill,
wood lanterns are being put up in readiness for Buddha’s birthday on May
8. Monks, in tunics and pants, look very ruddy and hearty, not at all skinny
ascetics. They are loading a coach with food for what looks like a picnic outing.
In early afternoon, we take another visit to an ancient
site, the Changing of the Palace Guard at Deoksugung.
This doesn't seem like a pageant, but much more of a bona fide military exercise.
Not surprising when you’ve seen the DMZ. Borders always have to be carefully
patrolled here. With their angular hats and black mustaches, The Guards appear
North Asian or possibly Mongolian. This palace dates back to the fifth century
but was mostly destroyed by the Japanese and has been rebuilt.
Read Judith's Other Blog Entries:
Sunday, April 13, 2003
Saturday, April 12, 2003
Friday, April 11, 2003
Thursday, April 10, 2003
Wednesday, April 9, 2003
Tuesday, April 8, 2003
Monday, April 7, 2003
Additional Resources:More
about Korean Buddism
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